Maintaining your car’s paint job is so simple that anyone can do it successfully, with the right amount of effort. Neglect its care or use the wrong products, however, and your shiny vehicle may not look so good any more. To make things worse, some urban legends and tall tales about automotive paint care can actually harm the finish. The swirls and dull spots you may notice are almost always the result of using the wrong products and techniques when washing, drying or waxing your car. Below are some helpful hints for keeping your vehicle’s paint job looking good for years to come.

How to Wash Your Car the Right Way

Your vehicle takes a beating. Everything from tar and gravel to birds and bugs take a toll on its finish. Experts recommend washing your car at least twice per month and more often during bad weather. Letting dirt, debris, salt or other foreign substances sit on the paint can cause rust, staining and even corrosion, and can also dull the shine. Never scrub bird droppings off your car. Remove them as quickly as possible by soaking the spot for a few minutes with water (and a little soap if necessary), then rinsing with a spray bottle.

Washing your car should begin with a thorough rinse to dislodge grime. Wash your vehicle by hand, out of direct sunlight, with a soft natural sea sponge or sheepskin mitt, using a gentle detergent made for cars. Never scrub with a brush or anything that could create microscopic scratches in the finish. Rinse your sponge each time before reloading with soap, and change the wash and rinse water often. If you aren’t able to do the job yourself, be sure to seek out a brushless car wash.

Correctly Drying and Waxing a Vehicle

Always dry your vehicle immediately after washing to prevent water spots. Water spots look bad, but they also leave harmful mineral deposits behind that can erode the finish. Dry quickly using a gel-blade squeegee, a large microfiber towel (or both). Start with mirrors and windows, then move to the roof and downward. Use a second, dry towel and go back over it one more time. Use a different towel for wheels and non-painted bumpers to avoid cross contamination between abrasive brake dust and painted surfaces. Don’t neglect waxing, as this is the main line of defense between your car and potential paint damage. Choose a nonabrasive wax and apply with a clean, soft sponge or cloth, following manufacturer’s directions. Avoid parking under trees, as falling sap, leaves or bird droppings can quickly erode the layer of protection that waxing provides.

Professional Auto Detailing Services

Having your car professionally detailed twice or more per year can add years to your paint’s finish. Professional car-wash products and methods will add an extra long-lasting layer of protection. Body-shop detailing services can include buffing out any areas of oxidation and may even be effective for those annoying swirls caused by improper washing methods. Detailing may include special services for removing tar and bug residue, for cleaning the car’s undercarriage and engine compartment or for fine-cleaning the interior.

Having your car detailed by professional auto-body technicians can add years to the life of your finish and keep the car looking new. Most detailers will be glad to offer you professional advice on how to maintain your car’s paint job most effectively.

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Most car enthusiasts want to restore their car’s logo emblems for their beauty.  Beyond enhancing any car’s appearance, original emblems also increase it’s re-sale value. You can purchase New Original Stock (NOS) emblems via the internet and local car shows, but you can save money by painting the originals you already have.  Vintage, cast emblems have paint-filled depressions in a many colors.  Most emblems are fastened to the car’s metal body parts, and must be removed from the car for restoration. Emblems mounted on the car body feature pegs in the back. Punch holes in a cardboard box and slide emblem’s pegs through the holes to hold it in place.  If you can not remove them, take the car to a body shop.

Car collectors save vintage badges and emblems because original parts are important to the car’s authentic restoration. Many suppliers now manufacture reproduction emblems (especially in China).  Most reproduction badges don’t carry those original part numbers. New old stock (NOS) emblems are becoming harder to find, making them more expensive, so always try to save your original emblems!

Tools Needed For This Job:

Soap & Water

Toothbrush (any small brush)

Clean rags

Safety glasses

Safety gloves

Hobby knife

Paint stripper

Small, pointed paintbrush

Model paint

Paint thinner

Steel wool (extra fine)

Chrome polish

CAR LOGO EMBLEM PLATING TARNISH

Is the plating on your original emblems in good condition? If so, matching model paint, a small-pointed paint brush and paint thinner will quickly bring your emblems looking like new again. To find the “correct color,” take your emblems to the hobby shop with you. NOTE:  Model paint needs a temperature of @70 degrees or less to flow well and dry slowly.

CAR LOGO EMBLEM SCRATCHES & CHIPS

Car emblems are divided into depressed areas with metal ribs. You must clean chipped or scratched areas to the bare, smooth metal BEFORE you even attempt to add any new color. If there are only a few chips, they can be scraped down to bare metal with the tip of a small knife.  You might need paint stripper to fully clean out some areas.  NOTE:  Never sandblast chrome, as it will ruin the plating!  You can use a toothbrush to remove dirt in the tiniest  corners. After you remove the old paint, clean the emblem  with paint thinner and wipe it off well with a clean cloth. Now, set it aside to dry completely.  Then, wash it with soap and water, and wipe thoroughly again with the clean cloth. NOTE:  Always work in a well ventilated area and properly dispose of all used containers and rags.

CAR LOGO EMBLEM PAINT RESTORATION

Before opening, shake the model paint by hand for a couple of minutes.  Mix the model paint, making sure it’s at room temperature, so thin enough to flow freely. Pour small amounts into a clean, separate container if you are going to dilute the paint with thinner.  Put a drop of paint on the end of the small, pointed paintbrush and gently, slowly place it into the emblem area you wish to paint. NOTE: DO NOT BRUSH or PUSH the paint into the area.  Simply allow several drops to flow together and fill the space. If the paint is too thick, it will not “flow” enough.  You must add more paint thinner to the paint bottle to “thin it.” Then, apply more of the now flowing paint until your area is fully covered. Position the emblem so it is level and let it dry thoroughly before handling. This can  take a few minutes, or a few hours, depending on the thickness of the paint.  You can use a hairdryer. or CLOSED sunny window, to speed up drying time.  NOTE:  You must clean the brush thoroughly before you apply a new paint color. Do this by washing the brush in the paint thinner several times.

CAR LOGO EMBLEM PAINT EDGING

Car emblem details are very tiny, so some paint will always end up “flowing” where it doesn’t belong.  Let the paint dry overnight, then scrape unwanted paint off with a small knife.  Scrape any spills or uneven paint, including raised edges.  Patience is the key to success when working with extremely detailed, small pieces. NOTE: some imperfections were already present in the factory emblems, so you’re not seeking perfection now. Emblems are mostly viewed from several feet away, and they look “perfect” from that distance.

CAR LOGO EMBLEM CHROME POLISH

Now that you’ve let the paint dry on your entire emblem, the last step is to polish the chrome until it shines like new again.  Polish the chrome plating with a small piece of fine, steel wool. NOTE:  Carefully avoid touching your new paint job…or you risk redoing it again. You can also apply a little fine chrome polish with the steel wool for extra shine.

When your car’s color fades, you have nothing to do except taking your car to an auto service station for paint correction. Also, there are certain conditions when the need of paint correction arises. If your car meets an accident, you probably take it to a mechanic to get the dents removed. Dent removal is a process that includes eliminating just major dents, and not scratches, marks or other surface imperfections. If you want your accidental or damaged car to look like a brand new piece, the only solution left for you is to get it painted. Paint correction is a part of restoration.

Paint correction, as a service of restoration, includes mechanically polishing a car’s paint to remove scratches, oxidization, swirl marks and other surface imperfections caused by accidents, weather exposure, birdlime or chemical fall out. The typical car paint correction process involves many steps as follows:

• To start with, the vehicle is rinsed and soaked under a blanket of snow foam.

• The wheels are cleaned using PH neutral wheel cleaner to remove break dust and car tar spots, while the car paint is soaking to loosen up the dirt.

• Then the car’s body is washed with clean water using the “two bucket” method, which minimizes contaminant transferal to the cars paintwork and the infliction of wash marks. Lambs wool wash mitts are used to carry out washing.

• The body and the wheels are dried completely using using “waffle weave” and microfibre drying cloths.

• After washing and drying the car, the next step is to remove bonded contaminants. It provides a smooth surface ready for machine polishing.

• Thickness of the car paint is meticulously measured using a Fischer paint thickness gauge. If any area is found to be thinner than desirable, it’s adjusted to avoid breaking pain.

• Before the car is ready for machine polishing, paint condition is carefully checked with the aid of a Brinkman paint inspection lamp.

• The car is then painted using an electrical machine polisher. Starting from the finest grade of polish, the paint work gradually moves to coarser grades of polish as required to achieve a good level of correction and ensure smooth finish.

• At the very next stage, painter perform some localized wet sanding, which helps in achieving full removal of any RDS (random deep scratches). Paint thickness is again measured. If the paint is too thin, wet sanding will not be possible.

If you are going to do a job then the motto is “do it right” and this most certainly applies when it comes to stripping paint. Most professionals when stripping the paint from panels for example will depend on a chemical process to assist them. The chemical is specifically designed for stripping paint for the most part, though these are not cheap so learning to work with them properly can save you time and money. It’s still a time consuming project. You have to apply the stripper, leave it while it does its job, then come back and scrape of the stripper, then start the process all over again.

Here are some steps to help you get the job done fast and efficiently.

Step One:

Get the surface ready. You do this by masking off the areas you don’t want stripped. Make sure you use a good quality masking tape, as you don’t want the stripper to seep under the tape. Also, be sure to mask well any openings or crevices that the stripper could get into. If this were to happen and go unnoticed then you could run into a problem later on. Stripper could easily surface up into the new paint you just recently applied.

Step Two:

There are many good chemical strippers on the market today. Make sure you read and follow all of the manufacturer’s directions exactly. Don’t just assume that the one you are using now is going to be the same as the one you used last time. Some strippers are in liquid form while others are in a paste form. One common brand that is quite good is Aircraft Remover that is specifically made for auto body use. You need to pour some of the stripper from its original contain into a disposable container. Make sure you use a chemical resistant paintbrush to apply it with otherwise you could end up with a melted brush.

When you are applying the chemical, apply it in one direction only and don’t work too much with it. Working it too much only reduces its activity.

Step Four:

This is an important step. Once you have your stripper on then cover it with polyethylene about 2-4ml thickness. Then secure this all around the edges. The reason for doing this is that the chemical components in the stripper that are responsible for softening up the paint evaporate quickly. Whereas if you cover it then it will work for a much longer period of time. You can leave it up to two hours for tough jobs. This little technique makes that expensive stripper go a little bit further. Another hint as well is with a 40-60 grade sandpaper just rough up the surface of the paint just enough to break through the paint film then apply the stripper.

Step Five:

Remove the polyethylene, scrape, and then use steel wool to get into the crevices. Make sure all of the stripper residue is removed before proceeding. Some strippers you can rinse with water, but read the manufacturers directions according to the product you are using.

I have noticed that the first thing that a person notices is the color of the car am driving. People do not even notice the registration on the car. That’s why i have become so selective in choosing the cars that i drive. Selecting car paint colors for a full overhaul of your car is not easy though. These days, there are thousands of shades and variations of blue, Green, white, yellow and so on. You need to have a color code to define the exact color that you need.

I got these kind of challenge sometime back, i was forced to visit my local car dealer shop. I looked at the cars they had on display. Once i had identified the car paint colors i liked, i asked them to give me the numeric color code of that car, which they did willingly. They had to go to their computers to be able to identify that particular color code. I would not want you to go through the same process if you really do not want to.

You will realize that there are six basic car paint colors in the United States i.e. beige, blue, silver, Black, Grey and red. Variations of these shades should easily be found. Some of the car colors that have found demand in the States are Classic Black, White and Silver, orange power, blues and greens that give a sporty look, brown on the inside among many other shades. Blue is considered as classy as black while orange is the color of fashion.

Beside choosing a particular color for your car, you will need to either do the painting yourself or employ the services of a professional painter. This will cost a little more and at this point you should be better of having your job done by a paint shop.

You will be surprised to see just how to spray car paint really can be easy. That doesn’t mean that you can just grab a tin of paint and go at it. There are some basics you need to know. Both in the preparation and application.

Step A:
Prepare by gathering all of your items that you are going to need. Make sure your surrounding area is protected against any possible over spray. Any parts that do not need to be sprayed and that can be removed then do so. For other areas cover well with paper and masking tape.

Step B:
You will have to examine the car carefully for any rough spots. These will need to be sanded with 300 grit sand paper. This will smooth out the rough spots. It also allows the spray car paint to adhere better. Once you have finished sanding, make sure all of the dust dirt and debris are removed from the vehicle. It’s imperative that the car be perfectly clean.

Step C:
You will need to apply a primer. This will make sure that you get an overall even coat of your colored paint plus helps the paint to adhere well. When you spray the primer, make sure you apply light coats and allow for drying in between. How to spray car paint takes a little getting used to.

Step D:
Now you are pretty well to the point where you are about ready to spray the color. You may have decided to use the spray car paint that comes in aerosol cans, or perhaps you have opted for the spray gun. In either case, make a few practice strokes on an object before you start with the car. Once you are ready, start the passes with the paint without hesitation. If you hold the spray can or gun in one spot, you will end up with uneven coverage and possibly the paint will run. If this happens you have a major repair job on your had. You will most likely have instructions as to how to spray car paint using the equipment or spray cans.

Step E:
It’s up to you whether you want to wet sand between coats of primer and color paints. You may want to research this option on the web, or check with someone that is familiar with how to spray car paint

Step F:
Once you are totally satisfied with the color, you are down to the finishing touches. You will now want to apply several clear coats. This will give the gloss and finished look to the car as well as protect the finish. Probably two coats will be sufficient but it will be up to you. Make absolutely sure it is dry in between coats.

Step G:
Once again, you have the option of wet sanding if you prefer. Again, I suggest you ask the advice of individuals that are familiar with how to spray paint a car. If you decide to follow this step then you need to wet sand with the following grits in this order. Use 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and the finally the 2000. This will remove spots that may be too heavy in the clear coat application.

Step H:
Now you will want to using a rubbing compound to buff the surface so you can use a 2000 grit to remove any scratches.

Step I:
You should now buff the surface. To do this simply use a medium cut polish. Once you have done this, you should have a perfect glassy look to the finish.

Step J:
As a final touch, you may want to apply a few coats of wax.